This year has seen the usual merry-go-round of chefs. Unfortunately this has left me with very few good dining options near where I live. Michael Wignall departed Latymer at the beginning of the year for greener pastures, and while it is nice to see the hotel put their trust in a young talent like Matt Worswick, my meal there in May was uneven with a few technical slips. Steve Drake left his eponymous Michelin starred restaurant following his split with his wife. Nearby Stovell’s, another restaurant harbouring Michelin star ambitions, was merely pleasant with the standard of cooking a long way from the 1 Michelin star level they are hoping to achieve. Dining options locally have been slim pickings, that was until the recent announcement of a new team heading up the kitchen of Coworth Park.
Knowing from experience how filling taster menus are we opt for the À la carte menu. This receives a rather strange response from the waiting staff as though our option is the less favourable choice.
There were surprises in the dessert section. “Muscavado, marcapone, prune, passion” was a fun if loose interpretation of a deconstructed Tiramasu. The deep, sweet richness of the Muscavado replicated the coffee liqueur. However the dessert went much further with its use of prune and raisins soaked passion fruit to create a delectable, stylish dessert.
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