10th September 2014
Ben's Canteen is one of those places that instantly makes you feel at home. Those in the know (and living close to and around St John's Hill will be familiar with the blue awning leading into the reclaimed and stripped back wood interior.
The first site opened in 2011, and I reviewed it during their soft launch period, and then again once they'd made a few changes to the burger couple of times (and was even invited to graffiti their toilets), so it was with great pleasure that I headed back to try a brand new burger, inspired by the tastes of Korea...
Price:
K-Town Burger - £9, Crinkle Cut Fries - £3.50, Deep fried Pickles - £4, Mac 'n' Cheese - £4
Presentation:
The K-Town burger sits imperiously on the plate, piles of kimchi poking out under the shiny demi-brioche bun. It's a loaded burger and satisfyingly fills up the blue-enameled plate it sits on. It's a marked improvement on their previous burger presentation.
Toppings:
Uh-Maz-Ing. There is some serious chemistry going on in this burger, and the key to this are the layers of spice and umami that work together in almost perfect harmony. First off the kimchi is sharp, spicy and juicy, and it's piled on top of the patty in spades. Underneath the burger is a layer of pickled ginger and cucumber which add sweetness and crunch to the mix (although the pickled cucumber could have more vineagar as the flavour is lost against the kimchi and spicy korean tomato). It's the gochujang (spicy bean paste) mixed with ketchup that adds the final glorious touch to the burger, with a huge hit of umami and a soft, lingering spiciness on the palate.
Meat
Meat Win. The meat Ben's Canteen use in their burgers is the same patty used by Patty & Bun, supplied by butcher HG Walter, but with one small difference - they add chopped mushroom into the ground beef mix, which I considered an odd choice...until I tasted it. The caramelisation of the mushroom with the beef adds a subtle earthy/umami hit to the beef and makes it instantly moreish. It also juices the whole thing up to the max.
Burgers are cooked medium unless requested otherwise (so make sure you request it) and the med-rare is on point.
Bun:
The Bun is the same Millers demi-brioche used by a range of burger restaurants across the capital. It 'almost' doesn't contain the huge amounts of juice and sauce this burger gives out...but it just about holds out. No problems here.
Accessories:
Yeah, I went a bit mad with accessories, sampling the mac 'n cheese, deep fried pickles and crinkle cut fries. Pickles are pretty good, interestingly going for breaded rather than the MEATLiquor-style battered, as are the crinkle cut fries, which I hadn't noticed before but make brilliant vessels for spooning mayo into your mouth. Mac 'n Cheese was good, but a touch on the dry side.
Overall rating: 9/10
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Location:
For those of you who follow this blog regularly, you'll remember my visit to Ben's Canteen during its soft launch, where I sampled their burger concept, and got to meet Ben, the man behind the canteen.
Well, a few weeks ago, I was invited back by Ben to try out his upgraded burger, and to graffiti the men's toilets...but more on that in another post.
Price:
Ben's Canteen (BC) Burger with chips - £12.50. Add bacon - £1.
Presentation:
The presentation of this burger is fairly standard. The burger offers up a double patty, with cheese melted on each, a floured bap (bun on) and a pile of steak cut chips.
Toppings:
Very good. The melted cheese is a smoked Montgomery cheddar, which offers a wonderfully mellow and savoury flavour. It was melted over and between the patties gluing the whole ensemble together. On the base of the bun was a bed of ketchup and mustard with three or four thinly sliced gherkins. The condiments added a great counterpoint to the cheese and were quite reminiscent of the comforting cheeseburger style of the Byron Uncle Sam burger.
Meat:
Very good. The meat in the Ben's Canteen burger has been totally upgraded from its former spiced meat paste incarnation, to a top notch, coarse minced chuck patty. Two of them in fact. The patties are around about 4oz each and are stacked on top of each other in the burger composition. They are made by Dove the Butcher on Northcote Road, not 10 minutes walk from Ben's Canteen, and you can buy the patties in their shop. The patties are made from minced chuck steak, and include a mix of finely chopped onions, garlic, salt and pepper. I am normally dubious when restaurants get creative with the patty mix, but the simple ingredients added to this one worked well with the whole ensemble.
Bun:
The weak link. There is nothing wrong with this floured bap, direct from the Flour Station, other than it doesn't do a great job in keeping the juicy patties and sauces in. It's also a bit too big for the patties, leaving a big overhang which ends in a bite into empty space.
I asked Ben about the burger bun and his plans, and it is on a (very long) list of tweaks to make to some of their dishes. His main priority was to improve the patty, which he's done magnificently, so look out for a new look bun at some point in the future.
Accessories:
Fine. These steak-cut chips aren't going to set the world on fire, but they are cooked golden and crunchy. Hand cut chips have since come on the menu, and I look forward to heading back to try them.
Overall rating: 8/10
This is a pretty good burger, packed with flavour, juice and the superb smoked Montgomery cheese, but the bun needs to be reconsidered as it's just not up to the task.
The fact that at least six burgers were served while I was eating mine shows this burger is in its ascendancy!
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