Summary:
If youāve wandered into a Jeremy King and Chris Corbin venture before (The Wolseley, The Delaunay, Brasserie Zedel), youāll instantly recognise the space as one of theirs; they are masters at baroque beauty, early twentieth-century glamour, bustling European-style all-day brasseries, panelled walls and big clocks. The menu partially reflects those in The Delaunay and The Wolseley - the presence of schnitzel, wursts, wieners, ice cream coupes and sachertorte are ubiquitous.
At Fischerās though, thereās a greater delve into a specific Viennese offering. I had only recently learnt about spƤtzle - and more importantly, how to correctly pronounce it (shpetz-leh) - at an evening cooking with part-Austrian TV cook Rachel Khoo. You'll find them here, and theyāre good. Pasta dough pushed through small holes to make little dumplings, finished in butter and with a generous amount of garlic that I more than agree with (Ā£3 - side).
Chopped liver with sweet rounds of pickles is also very much of-that-region; a well-textured patĆ© served with crisp bread, itās a solid way to begin (Ā£6.50). Beetroot and goatās curd salad was as good as those components have capacity to be, assuming fresh and seasonal ingredients - the case here (Ā£8.25).
Not ordering a schnitzel on my maiden visit to an Austrian cafĆ© would be, I suspect, little short of sacrilege. Couple this with most of social media responding with āthe schnitzel!ā to my pre-lunch research query of āwhatās good at Fischerās?ā, and Iām going to order a schnitzel.
And so it was the Holstein or nothing, a huge veal cutlet pounded tender, breaded, and plunged into hot oil, topped with a fried egg, a criss-cross of anchovies and a scattering of tight capers (Ā£21.70). Very pleasant it was, if not hefty, even for me. With hindsight, it seems I was served the large option, and yet I donāt recall being asked which size I wanted; there is also a āsmallā available for Ā£12.75.
A few other service teething problems were noted. Our starters came before our glasses of champagne, then offered on the house by way of an apology. Another waitress introduced our dessert wines with āI donāt know how to pronounce these - I shouldnāt be working in an Austrian restaurantā, albeit jokingly. And there were additional hints the staff werenāt entirely au fait with the menu. I say teething problems, theyāve been open since spring.
The menu is full of umlauts that are fun to pronounce with your best Schwarzenegger drawl, my favourites being: kƤsekrainer (pork, garlic and emmental sausage), zwiebelrostbraten (grilled rib eye), marillenknƶdel (apricot dumpling with apricot compote and vanilla ice cream), and Ć¼berstĆ¼rzter (long espresso and belgian chocolate poured over whipped cream).
Try saying those after a couple of glasses of Pommery, or, if youāre the waitress. Thereās also an extensive choice of cured fish, salads, brƶtchen (rolls), sandwiches and biscuits.
For a sweet finish, there was an apple and walnut strudel which I didnāt try but my companion said was pleasant enough (Ā£6.95). The Wien - a towering assembly of coffee and vanilla ice cream with whipped cream and espresso anglaise sitting atop chewy bits of meringue like those found in Lucky Charms - was good, if not confrontational in its challenge to clear it. āFinish me, I dare youā it silently flounced upon delivery - another big portion (Ā£5.95).
Iād go to Fischerās again if I was in the area. I like that itās an all-day establishment and youāre not pressured to dine on a full three courses; a catch-up over coffee and konditorei is perfectly acceptable and exactly befits the style of the venue. In terms of the food, itās not ground-breaking but itās solid; essentially middle-European classics executed well.Ā
With similar formats and some of the signature items also available at The Wolseley and The Delaunay, Iād say that if theyāre more geographically accessible (the case for me), thereās probably little need to venture to Marylebone specifically for Fischerās. But maybe for the spƤtzle.
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