Everything about Estiatorio Milos’ London outpost is perfect. This upmarket Greek restaurant takes up a sizeable strip of Regent Street, the floor to ceiling windows are dressed in long drapes of white linen.
A baronial set of doors lead the way to a large, bright restaurant, a mezzanine above houses a private dining room and cellar, along with a raw fish counter.
Hanging orbs of muslin are filled with dripping yogurt, and sit next to an impressive cheese display.
The iced fish counter houses some impressive beasts and there’s a separate tank for lobster – most, if not all the fish is flown in each day from Portugal via suppliers in Greece – some on the large side where tables are encouraged to share. This is the same concept for each of the six restaurants owned by Costas Spiladis.
The restaurant itself is in the Grade II-listed building, previously British Columbia House on Regent Street, which has benefited from a multi-million pound Crown Estate makeover. Spiladis employed the Montreal-based architect Alain Carle who has created a wonderful dining space. Oak floors made from the wood from century-old Greek trees, marble from the Penteli Mountains, mirroring the Greek landscape, a land of stone and light.
The finished look is chic and minimalist. Clean and sharp contrasts between materials, evokes the dramatic qualities of the landscape of the Cyclades: a land of stone and light.
Mr and Me visited during lunch service and arrived at 12 just after the team briefing was coming to an end. By 1.30pm the restaurant was sending guests to the mezzanine floor. The Greek soundtrack was muted by the crackle of chatter from tables of corporate diners, families and ladies who lunch.
Firstly, let me begin by saying that there are lots of seafood restaurants here in the capital, if you like your fish, then you’ll know where they are, but not many who have Greek fish. All Milos’ fish is delivered daily from Greece alongside classic Mediterranean fish and those a little closer to home. Whether you like grilled, fried, steamed, sashimi or tartare your fish will be served just as you like.
We sat at table 24 perfect for my favourite game, restaurant watching. First up was a bread ceremony. A bowl of warm, chargrilled bread came with a waiter and a potted Oregano plant which was duly snipped and topped a generous drizzle of family olive oil.
I began with a glass of Greek sparkling wine, perfectly dry with fine bubbles and a super nose of rose and honey.
Imported Greek wines, chosen to match an exceptional a la carte list, is expected You can eat well with their set lunch menu at £29.50 which is served between 12 and 3 and very much aimed at the business lunch with an offer of being served in an hour or it’s free. I was in for a marathon and not a sprint and so we chose from the a la carte menu.
Thinly sliced and coated aubergine and courgette had been deep fried and served with a wonderfully double-cream thick Tzatziki.
A beautifully vibrant Greek salad was full of chunks of ripe tomato, which tasted of tomato, slices of sweet red onion, cucumber, and olives crowned with a couple of hefty triangles of Dodoni feta. A generous drizzle of that oil again, incidentally made by the owner’s sister, really brought this wonderful dish together.
A visit to the ice bar revealed a delivery of Greek razor and white clams which we asked for steamed and served in a broth. Both were exceptional, although for me the broth was a little on the salty side. Mr couldn’t get enough.
It was time to pop the table sides, a little like the button on my waistband, so more food could be added without arm and elbow interruption.
Perfectly chargrilled octopus was one of the many highlights. A charred crunch moved through to soft fleshy octopus and when it was scooped up with the sweet white onions, pureed fava beans from the volcanic island of Santorini, it was a fork of heaven.
I was desperate to try a small fish called a Gopes and I’m glad I did. This rather ordinary looking silver fish had been simply grilled and was deceptively sweet and full of meat. Sides of herb-sprinkled chips and a bitter green combination of Stamnagathi, Vlita, Dandelion arrived before a thin copper kettle.
Inside was a red Gurnard bathed in tomato sauce, chunks of potato and rustic rings of courgette, cooked in the traditional Kakavia style. Raised out and filleted in front of us, we were left with a sizeable bowl of rustic fish stew. No need for the sides.
Rustic yogurt dolloped with Thyme honey from Kythera and walnuts,
the lightest Loukoumades doughnuts the size of ping pong balls, drizzled in Thyme honey and topped off with shards of Aegina pistachios
and then … as if I haven’t eaten enough two scoops of ice cream arrive: one Baklava and one yogurt. Each bite tasted just like the layered filo and almond classic, with a gentle hint of honey and cinnamon.
A Greek coffee prepared in the traditional Hovoli, cooked on heated sand, was exceptional and helped kickstart my digestion.
Midday turned into 1pm turned into 2pm and then almost 3pm and I was encouraged to stay for dinner service. I only had a few hours to kill and it was sorely tempting.
From the charming security guard on the door to the huge welcome at reception and the wonderful waiting staff, I must single out Jason who was a remarkable member of staff, passionate about the food and everything Estiatorio Milos believes in.
Milos in Las Vegas is another fabulous restaurant but London has a little more style and class, a simple Greek Island in central London with me it's number one fan.
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