A leisurely lunch on King's Road at Rabbit, the Gladwin Bros' stellar sequel to The Shed in Notting Hill:
Once again, most of what arrives on the table comes from Nutbourne, the Gladwin family farm and vineyard. An excellent cocktail list shows off the best of British spirits, including Chase, Sipsmith, Sacred & Compass Box booze. The Negroni twist with Kamm & Sons British Aperitif in place of Campari is a great success, as is the no nonsense Peat Monster Old Fashioned.
The menu ("British Tapas" designed to be shared) is split up into mouthfuls, slow cooking, fast cooking, and puds. Two plates, a few "mouthfuls" and dessert each is more than enough for the table, but you won't be able to resist any less. Here's what we went for:
All of the outstanding mouthfuls (£1.50 each) plus noteworthy bread...
- Brown Crab Bomb, Lemon, Dulse
- Woodcock Pate, Smoked Potato, Medlar
- Beetroot Crisp, Goats Cheese, Pear Jam
- Mushroom Marmite Eclair
- Rabbit Wild Yeast Bread, Shallot Butter
A spot of slow cooking...
- Lamb Chips, Harissa, Parsley, Lemon
- Turnips, Carrots, Red Cabbage, Chestnuts, Tahini, Cranberries, Walnuts
- Veal Blade Hot Pot, Cep, Tunworth Cheese
Fast cooking...
- Doreset Crab, Chilli, Garlic, Tagliatelle
- Calves Liver, Nutbourne Spare Rib, Potato Skin, Green Peppercorns
- Grilled Venison, Onion Squash, Honey, Pumpkin Seeds, Reindeer Moss (?)
And a couple of puds...
- Jerusalem Artichoke Ice Cream, Chocolate Crumb, Wood Sorrel
- Maple Syrup Pudding, Preserved Plum, Rum, Buttermilk
Every section had standout dishes, but the cooking was superb throughout. The Nutbourne vegetables threaten to steal the show on many occasions. One of my companions was so impressed by the turnips that he attempted to purchase some from the kitchen to take home!
Sharing all of that cost less than many a pre-determined tasting menu, offering better value and more choice. Win win.
Go hungry to Rabbit and don't expect to get much done afterwards. You might just about manage to order their cookbook on Amazon if nothing else.
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