I headed off to Honey & Co. last week with sky-high expectations. I had reason to. The Middle Eastern haunt, which is set in a sleepy pocket of Fitzrovia just out of reach of Oxford Street's touristy din, boasts an impressive pedigree: husband/wife co-owners Itamar Srulavich and Sarit Packer worked at a heap of illustrious eateries, among them Oxo Tower and Ottolenghi (where Itamar was head chef and Sarit was head pastry chef), before deciding to go it alone. And in the two or so years since opening, the restaurant has been showered with praise (including winning Observer Food Monthly's best newcomer of 2013 award).
But however high my expectations were, they were eclipsed. Expertly executing that oh-so-satisfying formula of unpretentious, affordable food in warm surrounds, this is a must-visit for anyone with a weakness for Middle Eastern food. Actually, scrap that. It's a must-visit for for anyone with a mouth. Dare I say, Itamar and Sarit may even have outdone their former master (and one of London's great Middle Eastern institutions), Ottolenghi.
The appeal of Honey & Co. is a tale of two parts.
There's the atmosphere. Before even setting eyes on the menu, this little hole-in-the-wall has reeled you in with its homely charm. It's compact, buzzy, and very much feels like you're eating in the owners' living room. Decorations are kept to a minimum, bits of blue and white are flecked around the place, and the room is bathed in a soft light.
And then there's the food. The menu draws heavily from Itamar's and Sarit's Israeli backgrounds, although they have also cited Algerian, Moroccan and Iraqi cuisines as influential; it's a real melting pot of Middle Eastern flavours.
Deciding what to order was the toughest battle of the night (closely followed by the scuffle over the last falafel), and we spent the better part of a half hour agonising over whether to get a mezze plate (which throws out things like corn on the cob, olives, and aubergine and tomato salad with tahini) or sticking to our Middle Eastern go-tos of falafels and hummus (yes, these two things also came with the tasting plate, but we're greedy and wanted more than a 'taste' of both).
We ended up going with the individual falafel and hummus plates, and thank goodness for that, because both were moreish as hell. The green falafels were crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, and we dipped them into a refreshing zaatar spiced yoghurt. They were a top-notch version of what is - for my money - one of the best dishes in the world.
But it was the hummus, generously dolloped onto a plate with a side of pitta and brioche pieces, which was the star of the appetizer show (though I much preferred the pitta to the sweet brioche-hummus combo).
The mains were just as impressive. Thankfully the decision-making here was far less laboured because there was something slow-cooked on the menu. Sold! My slow-cooked lamb shoulder came immersed in a plum and rose liquid with a side of bulgar pilaf. The lamb was as melt-on-your-mouth as I had could have hoped for; the sauce was slightly, though not sickeningly, sweet; and the pilaf was infused with a punchy tomato flavour. Yum.
A couple of my friends opted for a roast beef sirloin served with 'burnt potatoes', tomatoes, yoghurt and herbs. They were surprised to find that the dish was served cold - it was really a salad of sorts. But once they'd gotten past this (although one, who it's safe to say is headstrong, did struggle: "I was craving something hot!"), they admitted that the dish was full of flavour. The beef was pink and tender, the potatoes crispy and fatty and the tomatoes zingy, and the yoghurt pulled everything together. It was a deliciously fresh counterpoint to the lamb; if you're one for sharing, these two dishes complement each other perfectly.
The dinner was for a friend's going-away so we were not about to bow out come dessert time. There was a small a la carte dessert menu (I've heard the feta and honey cheesecake is a winner) but our eyes were fixed - and had been since before we sat down - on the cakes sitting pretty atop the front counter. After much deliberation once again (we spent a lot more of this dinner deciding what to eat than actually eating), we went for the lemon drizzle, the coffee and chocolate, and the courgette cakes.
Well, we nailed those choices. The lemon drizzle was a particular highlight: impossibly moist (I know no-one likes that word but there's no other way to do this thing justice), with a polenta-like texture, a sweetish tangy lemon flavour, and generously topped with cream cheese icing (a mandatory component for any cake to reach truly lofty heights). The others were both great cakes as well, just not quite as great as their citrus buddy.
In keeping with everything else about the place, the drinks list was a quality, no-frills affair, with a variety of wine offerings and some interesting cocktail options (my friend gulped down a refreshing lychee and rose bellini).
Honey & Co. is like a big hug. There are plenty of smiles, a warm vibe, and food which hasn't sacrificed looks for flavour. And you won't be slapped with a bankrupting bill at the end of it all. Bravo.
THE NUTS & BOLTS:
Best for: Affordable food bursting with flavour and served in friendly surrounds
Not for: No-one
Price for food and wine for 2: ~60
Location: 25a Warren Street, W1T 5LZ
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