I recently went along to Thai restaurant Chaophraya, on Castle Terrace, for the Ron Zacapa Experience Launch Party. Chaophraya have partnered with rum brand Ron Zacapa Centenario to create a new Terrace Menu, including special canapes and cocktails. The menu was certainly a complement to the new cocktails, as both were sweet and beautifully presented.
The Food
Being more of a foodie than a drinker, I was initially drawn to the canapes. The chicken satay stood out as a favourite. It was served with a light peanut sauce but was just as good without it. The chicken, which been marinated with lime and peanut, had kept the flavour of both and was perfectly moist. I was also impressed with the deep fried pork meatballs served on a tiny sliver of pineapple. They were smoky and fiery, with a meaty flavour that was offset by the sweet zing of the pineapple.
More disappointing was the duck salad. Served in a charming cone made from a dried palm leaf, it was a mixture of battered duck, red onion and spring onion. It tasted overwhelmingly of onion though and it seemed a shame to have battered the duck. It could have been left pink, served in slices and have better retained its flavour and texture.
Delicate baskets of golden tempura containing flaked cod and pomegranate seeds were closer to the mark for me. The baskets were crispy and the cod was sweet with palm sugar and kaffir lime. However, whilst the sweetness was moreish it was also overpowering, with only a hint of fish coming through.
Lastly we sampled some juicy Thai fish balls. The flavours of fish and lime were very well balanced, light and authentic. Spot on.
The Cocktails
Having fully assessed the food offering, our attentions were turned to the stars of the night: the cocktails. The new selection available at the terrace bar comprises various spirits, including the showcase Ron Zacapa rum and others in the brand like Ketel One vodka and Tanqueray gin. The smoking Pina Colada was a firm favourite, with bell jars housing the Coladas under plumes of hickory smoke whizzing past us to excited guests all night. When we finally managed to flag down one of the busy waiters and secure some of our own, we could see what all the fuss was about.
Upon delivery, the bell jar was removed with a flourish and a puff of smoke. A tall glass filled with a pretty cocktail, garnished with a wedge of pineapple, a twist of orange and a maraschino cherry, was revealed. The mix of Ron Zacapa 23 rum, coconut cream, vanilla sugar and pineapple juice was surprisingly refreshing and not too sweet or strong.
We also had a Bramble, with gin, cranberry and a squeeze of lime, which appeared in a tall glass, glowing pinky-red and topped with a blackberry. There was a Caprioska too, with Ciroc vodka, lime and sugar syrup; short, pale and finished with chilled grapes. Both were refreshing and mildly fruity, two classic serves that let their premium spirits shine through.
Overall I would highly recommend the Roof Terrace at Chaophraya for a fancy first date or a celebratory night out. Sipping a superb cocktail, enjoying some excellent Thai nibbles and considering the castle would be a wonderful way to enjoy a summer’s evening.
----- Previous review ------
Recently I was invited to Chaophraya to eat Thai accompanied with Glenfiddich whisky. Whisky and food matching is a challenge: I love the idea, but it can be tricky to manage. If you’re used to drinking wine with food whisky can seem too strong, too concentrated. At my whisky-matched meal, I had great fun, great food and fabulous whiskies, but I’m not sure that the matching element really worked for me. I was interested to try a different cuisine and whisky.
Chaophraya is at the top of 33 Castle Street, a great location with great views. We were in one of the private dining rooms, a glass cube with a view of Edinburgh castle. Sitting high on its dark rock, the castle looked rather mystical, lit in violet and blue. As a welcome, I was given a glass of Glenfiddich 12 year-old, poured over ice and server with a wedge of frozen pear. Pear is one of the characteristics of the 12 year-old and this way of serving it highlights it. It made a light, refreshing aperitif and is my new favourite way to drink Glenfiddich.
Spirit of a Nation
As a special treat, we got a taste of the Spirit of a Nation, a 29 year-old whisky created for the Walking with the Wounded charity’s South Pole challenge. It’s a very pleasant whisky: soft, rich and mellow, with lovely hints of leather on the nose and a lingering finish. Our bottle hasn’t been to the South Pole, but that didn’t detract from its soothing flavour. Spirit of a Nation is a great dram.
Drinking the Ages
The first course was golden baskets, crisp rice tartlets with a mix of cod and coley in a honey, lime leaf and lemongrass sauce. The tartlet shells were light and crisp, the fish sweet and flavoursome. (A touch too sweet for me – the honey over-powered the fish). With this, we drank the 12 year-old. It worked well, the whisky cut through the honey and refreshed the palate.
Rule number one when matching food and whisky: be generous with the water. Undiluted, the whisky can overpower the food, but with water, new flavours and aromas are released. Watering the whisky also makes it less potent, a good thing when you’re drinking several glasses with dinner.
We moved on to the Glenfiddich 14 year-old Rich Oak and a crispy duck salad. The salad was dressed with a chili dressing that was savoury, fresh and truly hot. Possibly too hot since it overpowered the flavour of the duck, but I enjoyed the scent of fish sauce, the sourness of lime and heat of the chili with the crunchy salad and the rich duck meat. I added a generous dose of water to the Rich Oak whisky to release the full width of flavours and to make last a little longer. A little deeper in flavour than the 12 year-old, Rich Oak has loads of wood character, with hints of Bourbon and spice, even a hint of green leaves. It’s finished in a combination of new American and Spanish oak casks, lending hints of sweetness and sap to the finished product.
18 and 15
Weeping Tiger with rice at Chaopraya Restaurant, Edinburgh
Weeping Tiger with rice at Chaopraya Restaurant, Edinburgh
The main was called Weeping Tiger, a sirloin steak served with a chili dipping sauce, rice and drizzled with a pepper sauce. It was delicious. The charring on the meat added a hit of wood and caramel, and the dipping sauce was tart and hot, but not too hot to let the flavour of the meat come through. The fluffy white rice was great for mopping up the last bits of sauce.
With the beef we drank Glenfiddich 18 year-old which has been matured in Bourbon and Sherry casks. It had notes of Medjool dates and baked fruit, the lush sweetness you’d expect from a sherry cask, and held its own against the umami of the steak. Again, I added a generous glug of water, which opened the nose and added a good helping of fruit, and added silk to the mouthfeel.
essert was sherry poached pears with meringue and vanilla ice cream. The ice cream rested on a thin slice of lemon which kept it in place, and also added a tang of lemon flavour that I really enjoyed. (Note to self: use this the next time you serve ice cream.) With it, we drank Glenfiddich 15 year-old, unique because it’s a combination of whisky matured in Bourbon, Sherry and new oak casks before being married in Glenfiddich’s pine Solera cask. The Solera cask is never completely emptied, but always at least half empty. The result is a smooth and complex whisky that I really enjoyed.
Match Carefully!
There are many reasons why this meal worked for me. The food was good, the drink was lovely and the company was good too. I particularly enjoyed that we tried whiskies from the same producer so that they all had something in common, but highlighted the subtle differences between different ages and casks. I learned a lot about Glenfiddich and how to serve it. James Milne, brand ambassador and our host on the night, is planning another Glenfiddich and food matching event in March. Join their newsletter for news and keep an eye out for what promises to be a fun and deliciously instructive evening.
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